一、干燥的水絲美容貼膜基膜本身可以吸收結(jié)合、吸附、儲存自身重量9- 40倍左右的水分(不含背襯材料所吸附和吸收的水分),所以在配制精華液時,需要注意以下兩點:
SUICEL, the dry mask fabric can absorb and store moisture about 9-40 times of its own weight ( not including moisture absorbed by the protective material/ backing material ). Therefore, there are 2 important tips you need to pay attention while preparing essence for the sheet masks.
1、需要補充膜體吸水賦形所需水分:
干燥狀態(tài)的水絲基膜加入水時,會結(jié)合、吸附、儲存(水絲綿的海綿腔隙)水分而恢復(fù)水凝膠狀態(tài),常規(guī)尺寸的水絲膜基膜所制成的面膜干膜重約1克,約需10-15ml左右的水來用于吸水賦形;常規(guī)尺寸的水絲綿基膜所制成的面膜干膜重約1克,約需15-30ml左右的水來用于吸水賦形;
It takes abundant moisture for the dry mask fabric to restore its 3D structure and recreate its designed functions:
The weight of one SUICEL “Super Absorbent Permeation Membrane” dry mask is 1 gm, thus it requires at least 10 to 15 ml of water to fulfill its film structure and form the shape. A regular size of SUICEL “Super Absorbent Cavernous Membrane“ dry mask also weights 1 gm and roughly about 15 to 30ml of water or more is required for shaping the mask.
2、需要修正精華液的濃度:
與其他無紡布面膜基膜相比,水絲基膜干膜會從精華液中結(jié)合、吸附、儲存(水絲綿的海綿腔隙)水分來吸水賦形,會導(dǎo)致膜體外的精華液粘度及溶質(zhì)的濃度增大。為了不影響精華液膚感,化妝品工程師可以適當(dāng)增加精華液中水分比例,使精華液中的水分在被干燥水絲基膜因吸水賦形吸走部分后,其粘度和溶質(zhì)濃度仍能維持正常狀態(tài),一般情況下,水絲膜的
精華液比普通無紡布面膜的精華液j建議多加10-15ml水,水絲綿的精華液比普通無紡布面膜的精華液建議多加15-30ml水。當(dāng)增加的水分比例適中時,膜體會呈現(xiàn)飽滿豐盈晶瑩剔透的狀態(tài);當(dāng)加入的水分比例偏少時,膜體會出現(xiàn)偏硬,貼服性不良,精華液膚感稠厚的情況;當(dāng)加入的水分比例偏多時,膜體會出現(xiàn)偏軟易碎、強度下降甚至不成形、貼服性不良、精華液膚感稀薄的情況,這是因為膜體為離子型材料,每張水絲膜面膜基膜約含0.02克氯化鉀、每張水絲綿面膜基膜約含0.03克檸檬酸鉀,如每張面膜精華液配方需要加入大量水時(40ml以上),則需要加入適量鉀離子(檸檬酸鉀或氯化鉀)以保持精華液0.05-0.2%左右的鉀離子濃度,但總體水分比例應(yīng)控制在膜體自身重量的80倍以內(nèi)。
To adjust proportion of water in product formulation:
The dry mask must capture most of the water from the formula base to form the 3D reticular structure; the reduction of water base will lead to the change of percentage saving for other ingredients and increase serum viscosity. In order to maintain relative concentration of the other ingredients, texture and viscosity for the remaining serum, it is necessary to increase proportion of water in the serum. Therefore, SUICEL Super Absorbent Permeation Membrane dry mask in comparison to regular non-woven fabric face mask needs at least 10 to 15ml of water in the serum base, and on the other hand SUICEL Super Absorbent Cavernous Membrane dry mask needs 15-30ml of water or more to fulfill its 3D reticular structure.
When the proportion of water in the serum is moderate, the mask will turn soft, moist, and transparent and remains a high intensity. When the proportion of water is too low in the formula, the mask will become too hard and dried and is difficult to adhere to the face skin. Meanwhile, the remaining serum can be too thick and very sticky. Contrarily when serum is too watery, the mask might become too fluffy and fragile to apply on. All of the situation above could attribute to the material base used for making SUICEL as it carries ions.
For example a piece of SUICEL Super Absorbent Permeation Membrane dry mask contains 0.02 grams of potassium chloride and each SUICEL Absorbent Cavernous Membrane dry mask contains 0.03 grams of potassium citrate. Therefore, when any of the product needs abundant water as its formula base (more than 40 ml for example), a proper amount of potassium ion (potassium citrate or potassium chloride) will be a necessity adding in the essence to maintain concentration level of potassium ion at about 0.05-0.2%, and the overall water ratio to the mask weight should be limited within 80 times less.
3. 面膜基膜模型及折疊方式:
研究發(fā)現(xiàn),當(dāng)面膜模型的眼睛嘴巴位置有開口并且眼睛或者嘴巴朝外的折疊方式時,少部分膜體出現(xiàn)了橢圓形痕跡甚至破孔,其原因是膜體折疊后,裸露的基膜直接浸泡在精華液里,造成膜體局部離子濃度大幅下降而熔融破潰;解決方案:①臉型模具采用嘴巴處為縫隙的臉型;②將眼睛和嘴巴裸露部位折疊在內(nèi)部;③若無法采用前兩條解決方案或采用了仍有痕跡出現(xiàn),可以在精華液中添加補充鉀離子。水絲膜可以在精華液中補充0.05%-0.20%的氯化鉀;水絲綿可以在精華液中補充0.10%-0.30%的檸檬酸鉀。具體添加量建議根據(jù)所用的精華液的實際情況進(jìn)行打樣調(diào)試。
3.Mask base membrane model and folding type :
Research finding,when the mask model has an opening in the eyes and mouth position and folds the eyes or mouth outward,Elliptic marks and even holes were found in a few membrane bodies.The reason is that after folding the membrane body ,the bare base membrane immersed into the essence directly.As a result,the local ion concentration of the membrane decreased greatly and the melting burst was broken.
Solution:
①The face mold USES a face shape with a slit at the mouth.
② Fold the exposed parts of the eyes and mouth inside.
③ Potassium ion can be added to the essence,If the first two solutions can not be adopted or if they are adopted,there are still traces,Potassium ion can be added to the essence Super absorbent permeation membrane can supplement 0.05%-0.2% potassium chloride into the essence. Super absorbent cavernous membrane can supplement 0.1%-0.3% potassium citrate in the essence. It is suggested to make sample debugging according to the actual situation of the essence.
二、 當(dāng)灌裝精華液溫度在60攝氏度及以上時,膜體有可能會溶解,所以在灌裝精華液時需要控制精華液的溫度,需控制溫度在60攝氏度以下。
Temperature of the essence might cause breaking down of the mask structure. Thus, it is important to keep temperature of essence lower than 60 Celsius degree to avoid mask degradation when filling essence into the bags.
三、 膜體的存放條件:
常溫、干燥、密封、防曬。
Storage condition for SUICEL:
Dry and confined space at room temperature; away from direct sunlight.
四、 膜體質(zhì)量符合國家《化妝品安全技術(shù)規(guī)范》標(biāo)準(zhǔn),為確保質(zhì)量,生產(chǎn)使用時需再次檢測理化、衛(wèi)生指標(biāo)并做處理以確保品質(zhì)。
The quality standard for manufacturing SUICEL is in line with the” Technical Specification for Cosmetics Safety (2015)”. In order to ensure high quality for the finished products, further physical and hygiene safety tests and inspections on the dry sheet masks need to be performed before mass production.